Friday, April 29, 2011

Make a Cute Brag Book from Old Plastic Photo Store Sleeves


Make a Cute Brag Book from Old Plastic Photo Store Sleeves for Mom:

The little bundle of supplies needed to make this brag book have been sitting in my “current projects” bag for about a month now. While planning my posts leading up to Mother’s Day this one caught my attention. Most of you know I am a mom, a dog mom, to a sweet little boy. As many of my friends have had children and I have not, I have come to somewhat view Mother’s Day as a day of honoring the female caregivers in our families. Therefore; if you are a dog mom like me or a mom to a hairless breed you can make this brag book for yourself or for someone who has been a mother in your life.

Before beginning this project you may want to consider a few things. Most importantly, who is the recipient of this book? Let’s say you are making this for your mom. You may choose memorabilia from your own childhood like some nostalgic piece visible in one of the pictures you select for the book. Tiny belts, choker necklaces, shoelaces, ribbons and hair bows will all work in place of a collar. Just look through the pictures you want to place in the book to start your mind rolling with ideas. You may also consider using an old shirt for the fabric cover. T-shirt fabric will work well. 

You will need:
 
  • Any plastic photo sleeve book
  • Two 5”x7” pieces of cardboard or chipboard
  • Three fabric pieces: one 6”x8”, one 7.5”x9.5”, and one 1”x6”
  • Glue gun and glue stick
  • Scissors
  • Exacto knife
  • Puppy collar, Children’s shoelaces, fabric headband, etc.
  • Corner crimps (optional)

First check to make sure your 5”x7” cardboard pieces will cover the plastic flip book. I believe this is the standard size. If this is not the size you have you will need to make adjustments as you go. Choose a fabric that is not thick or bulky. You will want it to have some give or stretch, too. Cut your fabric rectangles to the sizes specified above. Trace just inside the oval of the plastic flip book on to your cardboard and cut with your exacto knife.
  
Starting with the back cardboard or solid piece lay a strip of hot glue on parallel sides, stretch the fabric (medium size piece) tight folding the edges into the glue.

Now you want to miter the corners for a clean finish. Place a small drop of glue inside the top corner of your folded fabric. Pinch the outside edge and fold in (on top of itself) making a triangle. Then lay another strip of glue along the edge of the cardboard on the unfinished sides and glue them down.

Now that the back piece is finished we need to cut the hole in the center of the front (larger) piece of fabric. Fold length wise then width wise making a square and cut the folded corner. Unfold the fabric and place it beneath the front cardboard piece. You should see a diamond shape cut into your fabric through the center oval. You will want to clean up the diamond to an oval shape about ½” in from your cardboard oval. Glue and miter the outside edges as you did on the back cardboard piece. To finish the front you will want to stretch the fabric in through the inside of the oval. This is why you want the fabric to have some give. If you have to make relief cuts it may show on the inside of your book cover.

Now take your smallest fabric strip and glue it over the spine of the flip book. Do not yet glue all the way to the ends. Turn your ends under and glue them between the fabric and the outside of the flip book.

Cut about 2” from the collar at the buckle end. As I said before please feel free to use something from your child’s or your childhood: hair bows, tiny belts, etc. Most importantly it should be no less than 11” long. Sandwich the collar between the back plastic and the unfinished side of the cardboard with hot glue. Finish hot gluing the backs together.  

Buckle the collar to establish the length you will need to run across the front of the book. Tuck the remainder between the unfinished side of the front cardboard piece and the front plastic piece where it meets the spine of the book. Glue. Continue gluing the entire front cover to the plastic. If you so desire, you can use metal corner crimps. I did, but I will say they were a hassle.  

Voila! Unbuckle you masterpiece and place your pictures inside.

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

My Studio Remodel


My Studio Remodel:
The decision to start this “designer’s perspective” blog has been a multiple month labor of love or quest for creative sanity, I am not yet sure which, maybe both. Aside from the art and design projects I do for work/sale I really wanted to find a way to connect with distant family and friends, stay creatively motivated, and most importantly teach the creative projects and artistic theories to those that are always asking me how I come up with this stuff. Months ago I began keeping a creative journal of mostly repurposing ideas. I was excited to make the repurposed projects, but thought it sort of selfish and wasteful to pour into these ideas without sharing them. These thoughts along with those mentioned in the first post led to the conceptualization of this blog.

All that being said… the room we labeled “my studio” was the room with all the miscellaneous crap without a home filling the closets, a futon my husband had kept from college, my easel and paints, a dress form and sewing stuff and projects in any little nook they would fit. I knew if I wanted to truly incorporate areas for fashion, interiors, repurposing and dog friendly items to my design and art space I was headed for a remodel. As you can see below.

Today I would like to bring you along for a condensed form of my studio overhaul.

First, I wanted my studio to reflect my style as a designer and artist. Additionally, it needed to be functional for use as a studio and a workshop for this blog. If I have the time I will make a mood board before beginning a project. A mood board is really just a collection of magazine swipes, fabric swatches, and other mementos placed in a unified manner on a portable board. The purpose of a mood board is to have something to reflect on that helps you keep on track throughout a project. I actually did not make a one for my studio remodel, but it would have been a great tool. So, I did the next best thing…headed to the paint shop for swatches.

We have this great little mom-and-pop paint shop in Oklahoma City called Munger paint. The actual owners work the store; they and their staff are not only helpful and knowledgeable, but can walk you through a project. This is where I go if I need a specialty product or have no idea what I am doing. This time I knew exactly what I was doing, but needed a selection of metallic paints.

I wanted to create a posh, steely, high-contrast, elegant look with the wall color, which originally led me to want to do grey-black walls against white wood and add a ripple of color pops throughout the room. I had narrowed my base color down to three very dark grey samples and headed off to pick my metallic color. I found a metallic paint with lavender undertones. Oddly, all along I had been internally pulled to incorporate lavender; so, I was feeling really good about my selection. I set my purse on the counter to pay for my metallic paint and nearly beneath my hands laid a deep purple just nearly black paint swatch that supported my metallic lavender just perfectly. I commented to the store clerk, “I never make impulsive last-minute big decisions like this, but I am…I need a gallon of this Tulsa Twilight color.”  As it turned out this was a very good spontaneous choice.       

After painting the walls so dark I needed to soften the high-contrast with antiquey touches such as stenciling the large damask pattern on the wall, hanging some wispy curtains, and adding natural (but dark) wood to balance the wood flooring.

This next part did not go as planned. First of all, there is a reason to use plastic stencil paper. Old pizza boxes are not ideal, but I did manage to complete the wall with one. Again, bad idea for two reasons: I cut too close to the edge…and used a paper pizza box! What was I thinking? Paper ripples when wet!  

Next I laid the damask centers. This time I used real stencil paper and stayed away from the edges, but still probably tried to cut too many intricate details. Truthfully, I probably could have free handed the entire wall in the amount of time I put into the stenciling, but by the time I realized this it was way too late to turn back. Incorporating personal touches such as birds and dragonflies were important to me. In short, my Gran was probably my biggest artistic influence. She loved to paint scenes from nature and collected bird figurines. My parents made the outdoors a priority in my childhood. Everyday was a chance for a field trip full of teachable moments, hence the dragonfly. I think it is important to integrate even concealed, but deeply inspiring reminders in my workspace.        

After the week turned into weeks on the stenciling project I decided this was going to be a full-blown overhaul. I pulled papers, pictures, boxes of college stuff, outdated electronics and a multitude of other miscellaneous junk from the closets and beneath the furniture.

Peculiarly, this may have been the most draining section of my journey between the actual hours and the emotional attachment. I would assume most of you have accomplished at least one mass exodus of boxes full of old memorabilia that has not crossed your mind in years. I found sorority date party and other college pictures that made me laugh, cards, letters, and my uncle’s funeral program that made me cry and other silly little things like ticket stubs, but all of them full of so many memories. I kept the things I needed (and a few pieces of memorabilia) and tossed the rest. I carefully assessed the items I had kept, measured, clipped craft store coupons and bought shelving accordingly.   

It was finally time to have some design fun! I evaluated my surroundings to determine what was missing and if I was still on track with my imaginary mood board. You should always have some questions, such as these, in mind before beginning a creative project.
  • Had I established a feeling through color? Yes. The dark walls with a slight purple hue and steely metallic against the white borders conveyed clean-cut, but regal sophistication.
  • Had I added a feel for artistic whimsy? Yes. I had created a day dreamy feel though the twists and bends of the stenciled pattern, the additions of special, though cryptic, artistic inspirations, and the sheer free-flowing curtains.
  • Had I drawn the eye around the room? Yes. I placed a few white pieces on the wall bouncing between the curtains and the white wooden borders, added slight wooden touches to the opposite corner of the room to balance my easel across the wooden floor, and positioned some inconspicuous silver-metallic items around the room drawing away form the stenciled wall.
  • Did I soften the rigidity of the high contrasting colors? Yes. I added antique frames, and an antique mirror with vellum paper rosettes, glass jars full of interesting finds, flowy curtains, and soft up-lit lamps.

And most of all, Is this space functional for how I plan to use it?

Yes! Yes! Yes!




Monday, April 25, 2011

Thin Mint Chocolate Cheesecake

(Thanks to my friend, Michelle, we took some great shots of this one.)

Thin Mint Chocolate Cheesecake

The words: Girls Scout Cookies have a way of inducing instant salivation. I suppose if you are a Girl Scout mom your reaction may differ significantly. To those of you, like myself, that stare at the little green box envisioning that chocolaty wafer melting into my taste buds and knowing if I pull that tear tab I will have to invoke all of my will not to huddle in a corner shoving every last cookie in my mouth and licking any crumbs from the container, and to you moms that are still buried under piles of cookies that did not sell; this recipe is a great way to mix it up and share a Seriously Amazing dessert with your friends. 

What you will need:

Crust Ingredients:
  • 1/8 c. finely ground almonds
  • 1 box coarsely ground Thin Mint Girl Scout Cookies 
    • remove ½ cup, finely grind and reserve for later
  • 18 mini Oreo's or 2 servings
  • ½ Tbs. melted butter
Cheesecake Filling Ingredients:
  • 3 (8oz.) bricks Philadelphia fat free cream cheese
  • 1 (8oz.) bricks Philadelphia low fat cream cheese
  • 1 c. sugar
  • ½ c. finely ground thin mint
  • 4 eggs
  • 1 tsp. Peppermint Schnapps
  • 1 tsp. vanilla
  • ¾ c. fat free sour cream
  • 8 Andes mints (chopped)
  • ¼ c. Hershey’s or Braum’s hot fudge
Topping:
  • 8 Andes mints
  • ¼ c. hot fudge
  • 1 tsp. Peppermint Schnapps
Place a sheet cake pan on middle rack of oven and preheat oven 475 F.

Wrap exterior of spring form pan with foil. Combine finely ground almonds, coarsely ground Thin Mint Girl Scout Cookies (minus ½ c.), and mini Oreo's. Work melted butter into dry mixture. Press mixture into bottom and up sides of 10” round spring form pan.

Combine softened cream cheese, sugar, reserved (1/2 c.) finely ground thin mints, Schnapps and vanilla. Beat with electric mixer until smooth. Add eggs one at a time while stirring slowly. Reserve 1 cup of batter, and pour the rest of the batter into the prepared crust.

Return the cup of batter to the mixing bowl and add chopped Andes mints and hot fudge. Mix until well blended. Pour layer over batter in spring form pan.

Add water to sheet cake pan.

Place spring form pan in water bath. Bake 12 minutes at 475 F, then turn down to 350 F and cook for about 50 minutes. Time will vary depending on oven. Remove. Cool. Chill in refrigerator over night.

Melt Andes mints. Stir into hot fudge and Schnapps. Drizzle over individual slices to garnish.

Serves: 12
About 315 calories per serving plain
About 440 calories per serving with topping







Friday, April 22, 2011

I’ll Drink to That Centerpiece


I'll Drink to That Centerpiece:

I think there is something really elegant about champagne and wine corks. Potentially even greater, they do not have a particular season. And even better than that, it is great fun to add to your collection! This little piece of decoration has found its place as a centerpiece on my kitchen island for a few years now. I can not say how it got there or when it came to be only that I add and remove things occasionally, but it is a pretty little staple in my kitchen.

You will need:

  • Cake stand or candy pedestal
  • Solid color textured fabric
  • Patterned or tie-in fabric
  • Wine and/or champagne corks.
  • Seasonal addition - such as Easter eggs
The average person probably does not use candy pedestals and cake stands as much as I do, but I bet you have one tucked away in that wedding gift, never-opened box collection somewhere in the unreachable sections of the highest and lowest cabinets. Find it, today it will find a home free of a box and just maybe stepping out as a thing of beauty. Ok, here is the deal. I always want to promote using things you already have, but sometimes that takes some thought and modification. So maybe when you got married there were some pretty crazy-looking cake stands in fashion or yours is made from some Tupperware type plastics, you might want to look into using a metal, ceramic, or glass bowl or tray. If you need to set things on a pedestal or stack for height just make sure it is sturdy.

The next item of consideration: where are you going to place this piece: the kitchen, living room, bar-area? Now you have made a decision. In my case, as previously stated, I chose the kitchen. My kitchen is purple, yes purple, with black and white accents and medium-dark wood. Given purple is my main color if I put any purple into this centerpiece at all I would only do it in extreme moderation. Let’s say, for example, I choose to place a few fabric clippings with a Jacobean pattern which includes some purple flowers or a purple bird, or around Easter I add some purple candy eggs. Nothing overwhelming! Just tie it in if you desire. What I don’t want you to do is take a burgundy cake stand place yellow and green fabrics inside and toss a bunch of wine corks on top in a purple kitchen and wonder why it looks like you made the centerpiece at the same time as acquiring all the wine corks.

Now that I have you thinking like a designer let’s give it a whirl! Dust and shine your cake stand or candy pedestal. If you decide to use a cake stand or something without an edge lip create one with a ring of rope or rolled scrap fabric under your first layer. This way you will not see it, but it will contain your corks. Start layering in your base fabric. This should be a solid color. I liked the texture and translucence the lace brought to the whole.

Next I layered scrap triangular pieces (unfinished edges and all) of fabric left over from a runner I made for the kitchen buffet. Ah ha! This must be the tie-in piece! Create somewhat of an open flower affect.

Lastly, mound you corks.

Voila! I’ll drink to that!

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Gummy Bunny Baskets


Gummy Bunny Baskets:

About a month ago I was making my weekly, if not daily, trek through one of our local craft stores and notice an edible bird nest idea made from a simple icing ring and three little jelly beans. I did not want to recreate the idea it merely initiated a thought. I bought some jelly beans as soon as the Easter candy hit the shelves…which is what now, the day after Valentine’s? I put them in a pretty glass jar on our kitchen island and would think about them each time I walked passed. The problem then became that I had no idea how much my husband liked jelly beans. I have been filling the jar a couple times a week for the past month! A few weeks back while falling asleep I thought I should make little baskets and then just happened to find the sour strips at the checkout while renting a movie later that week; therefore, it all came together just in time.

Originally, I intended these gummy bunny baskets (isn’t that just fun to say?) to garnish the tops of cupcakes only, which is still a fantastic idea. If your kid needs to bring themed cupcakes for a party he/she can help you put these together. You do not have to be a great icing artist or even good with fondant to make these as cupcake toppers.

These adorable little baskets can be a great alternative to your kids (or you) gobbling all the Easter candy in one day. The kids will enjoy setting aside some of their gum drops and jelly beans for a fun project and hopefully making the candy last a little longer.

Can you imagine how cute these baskets would be at the dinner table on Easter Sunday? I would love to have a gummy bunny basket in the center of my place setting or next to my place card at Easter dinner. Wouldn’t you? And if your guest were so inclined they could eat the decoration.

You will need:



  • Gum drops
  • Gummy strips (optional)
  • Plastic wrap
  • Rolling pin
  • Potato masher or pizza cutter
  • Cornstarch or flour (optional)
  • Jelly beans

You want to begin by placing four same colored gum drops (wide ends together) in a cross shape (how Easter appropriate) on a sheet of plastic wrap. I chose to use plastic wrap to keep my rolling pin and cutting board free from sticky residue. You may sprinkle a thin layer of cornstarch or flour on the plastic wrap for ease of gum drop removal.

Loosely fold the plastic wrap over the top of the gum drops. If it is folded too tight the gum drop could create a bulge and squeeze through the plastic.

Press down firmly in the center section of the gum drops and roll with a rolling pin.

Roll until flat.




Fold in the long ends of the cross to meet the short sides. Pinch and mash together until forming the basket as shown.

I aligned a potato masher with the stripes and pressed down while rocking it to cut apart the colors. You may be able to pull the strips apart or cut them with a pizza cutter or just use a knife. A potato masher may be more kid safe.

Make your handle by attaching one of the sour strips to the basket. Dab a drop of water to each end of the strip if it does not stick on your first try. It should just press together.

Fill your basket with your sour strip grass.



Add jelly beans for your eggs. Voila! A gummy bunny basket.

Monday, April 18, 2011

Break Out the Bubbly Little Egg Stands


Break Out the Bubbly Little Egg Stands:

I have always loved dying, painting and decorating Easter eggs. I am sure many of us have happy childhood memories of egg decorating with friends and cousins. (some of you with your own children) I still love to display eggs around the house leading to Easter’s arrival and thankfully my egg decorating abilities have improved over the years.

There is something about changing the house from the warm snugly colors of winter to the pastels and bright colors of spring that is invigorating. It creates a visual signal to remind my brain that it is no longer sweater weather…so cool it with all the comfort foods, stop hibernating and go outside. Another potentially harmful side effect is the desire to go buy a new spring wardrobe with matching shoes. Well, instead of shoe buying…my sharp-dressed man ditched the event we were to be attending for a business dinner (which is fine) leaving me to make other plans.

So I picked up a bottle of Rosa Regale (my favorite sparkling rose), rented a girls movie, surely there was ice-cream somewhere in this mix too and Dash and I had a nice evening in. After untwisting the wire cage and setting it upside down on the counter I could not get the bottle of sparkling rose open. So, I began looking at the wire cage and thinking what a cute little egg stand that could be. Here is your excuse to try a new sparkling wine or champagne and a quick, cute and decorative way to celebrate Easter’s coming.


You will need:

  • Glue gun/glue
  • Pliers (needle nose)
  • Wire cage from a sparkling wine bottle
  • Ribbon and/or raffia
  • Egg to display
 
You will first need to secure the base to the four wires. Pop the circular piece out and place a tiny dab of hot glue on each wire corner. As shown below. Then slide the circular piece back down into place. Some of the glue will squeeze out. If you can, pull the excess off. If not it should not show. You just do not want it to make your stand lop-sided.

I chose to use raffia around the base of my stand. Raffia would work great with a “country” style house even though mine is not I think it will work generically for a spring look. If you do not have any or do not want to use raffia a 1/8” ribbon will work just fine. Press the raffia into the glue all the way around until you have met your starting point, leaving extensions that cross each other at the ends.

Thread another piece of ribbon beneath the point where the raffia criss-crosses itself. You may want to use a longer ribbon than is shown. This one was pretty hard to tie. This can be the same ribbon you wrapped at the base or even raffia, but this is your chance to tie into the look of your house. For example, I have a lot of black in my house it is the common thread from room to room. I like the raffia, but raffia alone just does not fit the “look” of my home, it may fit the “look” of yours. This is why I knew I needed to add something that made the finished product fit with the other d├ęcor.
 

Tie a knot in both the raffia and the ribbon.

Turn the stand upside down to tie your bow. This way the ends will point down. If you started with a longer ribbon just cut the ends after the bow is tied.

You will likely want to bend the top wire to straighten the kinks. You may not need pliers. I straightened most of it with my hands.

You may choose to skip this step, but I liked the decorative touch that bending the wires outward at the top created. Also center the intersection where the top wire is twisted together over your bow.

Voila! A bubbly little egg stand. Oh, so very cute! 

Check in for more Easter ideas throughout the week.
Happy Egg Hunting!



Friday, April 15, 2011

Making a Rectangle Sweater


Making a Rectangle Sweater:

I was doing laundry the other day and while draping a fairly expensive knit sweater across the top of the dryer, I sunk inside, noticing the ridiculous simplicity of the construction…a giant rectangle with two holes where the arms are attached. How had I not noticed this before? I’ve had this sweater almost two years! I am a sometimes irritatingly clean person; had I really not washed it? Gross! To my defense, it is more of a jacket and jackets are not washed with every wear.


You will need:
  • 2-4 yards of Jersey knit fabric, no less than 36” wide.
  • A sleeve pattern
  • Straight pins
  • Tape measure
  • Sewing machine – very small amount of sewing
  • Hem tape
  • Iron/ironing board

Let’s talk about choosing your fabric. Given that I went to design school, I have large tubs of unused fabric. You may not have the abundance that I do, but this project still should not be very expensive.

You want to find a jersey knit. Something just like your favorite t-shirt is fine or you can even use something heavier like a wool blend, but most importantly you want a knit fabric. Why do you want a knit fabric? Because you want it to hang correctly; this is how you achieve that free-form relaxed look that these sweaters are so famous for.

How are you going to wear this garment? What are you going to wear it with? I love these drapey sweaters for a couple reasons. First, I’m always cold. I hate being cold especially in restaurants, shopping or anywhere I have made an effort to dress myself in a decent manor. In these instances, it makes a perfect little cover-up to stay warm and still show off an outfit and it is removable in the fluctuating
 Oklahoma temperatures. (like today where the high is twenty degrees cooler than yesterday) Second, I’m most often in work-out clothes. Spandex, lets say, can be flattering in the gym, but not always the best attire for the rest of my daily errands. I am looking to wear this piece mostly for function and not to make a statement, therefore, I will be choosing a very thin, lightweight jersey knit in a light heather-grey.

My fabric was about 56” wide. This is important. You want to find a fabric that is wide enough to stretch width-wise the length or your back and anything else you may want to cover with about an additional 8-10 inches to create the drapey folds around the back of your neck and create the front side panels of the garment. If this sounds confusing, take two yards (give or take) of fabric hold it across your back where the fabric width is vertical or perpendicular to the floor. Wrap it around you as you would a blanket bringing it up over you shoulders. Turn loose of the ends and let it hang. This will help you judge if your fabric is wide enough. Does it cover your back? Butt? Does it cover too much? If so, that is where you will want to cut it parallel to the selvage. Look at the front. Is it hanging vertically over your chest covering you adequately? If so, place two fingers widths at the top edge of your shoulder (farthest away from your neck and right hand to left shoulder). Place a straight pin at the inside edge of your index finger. Repeat on the opposite shoulder.

This gives you three measurements: the width between arm holes, the height of the neck rise, and the length you want the sweater to fall. Novel, huh? My former teachers would be so proud…I’ve actually managed to place my lack of pattern making into teachable format. (Sorry guys, I know you tried.)

Now that you have these measurements you need to know if you will be cutting off enough of the fabric to make the sleeves. Remember, back a ways where I said if it hangs too long cut it off parallel to the selvage? (By the way the selvage is the tightly woven edges at the width of the fabric.) This is what will be left to make your sleeves. If your fabric was not wide enough you will need to buy an extra yard for sleeves. This explains the 2-4 yards. I could get by with 2 yards at 56” wide, but I am a tiny person and that is all the fabric I had. It would be suggestible to use 2.5 – 3 yards at 56” wide and of course add a yard if needed for sleeve. Check the remnants pile at your fabric store first. You can save money that way.


Pictured: my original sweater lain over the fabric I used for this sweater and a sleeve pattern marking the excess I would need.

Now, let’s work on the sleeves. I just bought a simple, one-piece sleeve jacket pattern at a thrift store for something like 25cents. It does not need to be a full-length sleeve just a basic straight sleeve. In my opinion, remember I hate sewing, having basic patterns on hand like t-shirts and pull-on pants is really to your own benefit. Follow the instructions on the sleeve pattern. It will have arrows to lay parallel to the selvage and placement details. Cut 2, one for each arm. Fold the fabric and cut them both at once, if you can, it will save you time. Pin the sleeve into tubes. Make sure they fit you, marking the top edge where you placed your two fingers earlier with a pin, then sew. Now you should have two tubes with one pin in the top of each. Measure the circumference around the top of the sleeve where it will meet the sweater. This will be the size of the circle you want to cut from your rectangular piece.




Fold your rectangle piece of fabric in half (hamburger fold). You should have three measurements from before, you are about to use them. From the top of the fold move down the distance you measured for neck length add ½”. Place a pin. Divide your total shoulder width in half and measure that distance out from the pin you just placed on each side of the fabric. Return to the neck pin. Measure down, along the fold the length you want the bottom hem to fall and add ½”.


You already know the size your circles from your measurements at the tops of the sleeves. Cut a circular hole with the top of the circle at each pin placed at the shoulders. Align the shoulder pin in the sleeve and the shoulder pin on the body. Attach the sleeves to the body. Right sides together. Sew.


I do not like to sew anymore than I have to. If I am working on something for my own use I will often use hem tape to save time and frustration. This is how we are going to finish the edges. The instructions are on the hem tape box. Press the sticky side of the ¼” tape to the right side edge.
Remove the covering.




Fold under.




Iron.



Even if you have to buy fabric, thread, hem tape and a pattern this project should not exceed $20 if you shop smart.